These are notes on wines we've bought and drunk at 1105 Altschul Ave., for reference when we're in the market again. So far, they're reviews by just Rick Moen, but Cheryl's views will be included if she provides them!

• Sterling Albert Winery, Mt. Diablo Cabernet Sauvignon, 2003: This one was pretty much your basic Cabernet Sauvignon. Nicely well rounded flavours, but nothing to write home about. 2009-01-11. Gift bottle.

• LIOCO Indica, 2006 (blended red wine from Redwood Valley, Mendocino County; 87% Carignan, 13% Petite Sirah). Lovely. Has a very complex, velvety texture, medium body, slightly tannic, very intense, spicy berry taste. 2009-01-17. $18 @ Beltramo's.

• Noceto Sangiovese, 2006. Plymouth, Shenandoah Valley, Amador County. Perfect replica of a Chianti. Medium dry, well balanced. Mild cherry taste and a bit of spice. Not overpowering. 2009-01-21. $15 @ Beltramo's.

• Fife Vineyards, Redhead Vineyard Zinfandel, 2003, Redwood Valley, Mendocino County. Nice heavy Zinfandel, kind of full and cherry-like, but a bit monochromatic for a Zin. 2009-01-25.

• Castle Rock Winery, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Geyserville, Napa County. Classic Cabernet Sauvignon, with all the overtones of flavour one hopes for, but good rather than great. Definitely needed to breathe, to get the oak out. 2006-01-26. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• Beringer, Founders' Estate Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005. Interesting. At first, I thought this wine was both thin-tasting and tasted too much of new oak, even after breathing for several hours. After letting it breathe overnight and trying again, it still seems light but has an interesting mix of fruit tastes, and most of the oak has faded. Very good. 2009-02-02. $8 @ Beltramo's.

• Sobon Estate, Zinfandel Old Vines, 2007, Plymouth, Amador County. Exceptionally interesting and lively. Both Cheryl and I considered this a winner. 2009-02-02. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• Avalon, Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005, Graton, Sonoma County. Nice, clean, tasty Cabernet Sauvignon, though I'm not hugely excited about it. Might want to try this one again when I don't have a head cold. 2009-02-09. $11 @ Beltramo's.

• Durban Vin de Pays du Vaucluse, Red Wine, 2007, cuvée sélectionée par Kermit Lynch, mis en bouteille par Leydier et fils, propriétaires, 84190 Vaucluse, France. Vaucluse is in the eastern part of Provence, east of the Rhône River. This wine is a perfectly fine 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Marsellan mix, a little peppery, smooth, subtle, interesting flavours. Worth trying again. 2009-02-11. $10 at Beltramo's.

• Huntington, Petite Sirah, 2005, Soledad, Monterey County. A little subdued for a Petite Sirah, but otherwise OK. Cheryl likes it a great deal. 2009-03-13. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• Cartlidge and Browne, Pinot Noir, 2007, American Canyon, Napa County. Nice, light, subtle taste with a haunting aftertaste. Sort of plummy but bright and sharp. Worth considering again. $11 @ Beltramo's.

• Sisyphus, 2006, Paso Robles, San Luis Obispo County. 80% Syrah, 20% Grenache. Extremely nice blend. Complex, spicy, a big wine. 2009-02-23. $14 @ Beltramo's.

• Le Grotte Reggiano Lambrusco, Rosso Dolce (Soft Red Wine), bottled by Cantine Mederfil, apparently bottled 2008. "Lambrusco" is the grape varietal. Region is Emilia-Romagna ("reggio" meaning region), on the northeast side of Italy, from the Apennines down to the Po River delta, capital Bologna. This wine comes from Emilia, the western, upland portion. Wow. This is the first sparkling wine I've actually liked. It's slightly (but not very) sweet or "amabile", slightly (but not very) bubbly (which the Italians call "frizzante" = sparkling, which results from only a partial secondary fermentation, as opposed to "spumante", which means full methode champagnoise), bright, and fruity. "Soft" flavour. Interesting sour-plum taste. Delicate bouquet. Serve chilled. 2009-02-25. $5 @ Trader Joe's.

• Bodegas y Viñedos O. Fournier's 'Urban Uco Malbec', 2007, La Consulta, Mendoza, Argentina. Almost as good as our favourite Malbec, Terrazas de los Andes. A little less smooth and interesting, but still notable. 2009-03-03. $10 at Cost Plus World Market.

• Drouhin Laforêt Bourgogne Pinot Noir, 2006, Burgundy, France. Nicely rounded, fruity, smooth. Worth having just to see what a Burgundy / Pinot Noir is supposed to taste like. 2009-03-09. $13 @ Beltramo's.

• Tres Pinos Tierra Roja Paso Robles Red Wine, 2007, bottled by Maddalena Vineyards, Los Angeles, for Trader Joe's. Mix of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah grapes from Paso Robles. Nice, a big wine, kind of jammy, plummy, cherry, raspberry flavour. 2009-03-15. $5 @ Trader Joe's.

• Terrazas de los Andes Winery, Malbec. Winery is a subsidiary of Moet et Chandon. Just perfect, intense, rounded. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• Aquila D'Oro, Toscana, Indicazione Geografica Tipica, 2006. Classic north-Italian dry red, mellow tasting, not as sharp as a Chianti. Flavour is growing on me: pleasantly jammy, not overwhelming. 2009-04-23. $4 @ Trader Joe's.

• Perrin et Fils Réserve, C&orirc;tes du Rhône Rouge, 2007. Complex. Peppery, cherry. I like it, but I have to say it tastes a bit unbalanced and raw compared to my favourite, E. (Etienne) Guigal. Label says it's 60% Grenache, 20 Syrah, 10% Mouvèdre, 10% Cinsault. 2009-04-23. $8 @ Beltramo's.

• Barbolini (Azienda Agricola Cantina Barbolini) Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro. Made from the Grasparossa varietal. Not bad, but just a bit of a let-down from the wonderful Le Grotte Reggiano Lambrusco. Still fruity, but a bit flat and uninteresting. 2009-04-23. $13 @ Beltramo's.

• Blackstone Winery, Merlot, 2007. I enjoyed this more than any other Merlot I've ever had; those usually strike me as bland. This had surprising depth, and I'd welcome having it again. 2009-05-19. $8 @ Beltramo's.

• Beckmen Vineyards's Cuvee le Bec, 2007, Los Olivos, Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County. 44% Grenache, 28% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, 8% Counoise. Man, this was delightful and tasty -- going by memory, sort of jammy, with deep complexity. Really good. 2009-05-19. $14 @ Beltramo's.

• Bodegas Marqués de Cáceres's Rioja Crianza. 2005. Tempranillo, Garnacha (Grenache), and Graciano grapes. From Cenicero in Rioja Alta region, Spain. I can't remember details, but remember this being a pretty pleasing and sophisticated wine, worth getting again. 2009-05-19. $13 @ Beltramo's.

• Bonny Doon Vineyard's Chequera Vineyard Paso Robles Viognier, 2008. Nice white wine, a rare varietal from the Rhône Valley with a floral aroma. Crisp, dry, fruit-forward. 2009-06-06. $20 @ Bonny Doon Vineyard.

• Bonny Doon Vineyard's Syrah "Le Pousseur", 2005. Superb example of a Syrah: dry, full-bodied, complex. Nice, subtle bouquet. 2009-06-06. $18 @ Bonny Doon Vineyard.

• Bonny Doon Vineyard's Ca' del Solo Sangiovese, 2006. San Benito County. Has that classic north Italian character, but also an individual taste all its own. I was going to call it a bit rough and unfinished, but it's really quite lovely once you get to know it. 2009-06-06. $12 @ Bonny Doon Vineyard.

• Bonny Doon Vineyard's California Viognier Light Port, 2001. 92% Viognier, 3.7% Strawberry Eau-de-vie, 3.0% raw grape spirit, 1.3% Peach Eau-de-vie. It's indeed light, and fruity (which would be the fresh grape spirits plus peach and strawberry brandies in it), with a really lovely, long finish. Slightly sweet and dry at the same time. 2009-06-06. $20 @ Bonny Doon Vineyard.

• Ceago Vinegarden's Dynamic 2007 Red Table Wine. Redwood Valley, Lake County. 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 17% Syrah. Interesting, fruity, cherry, complex, unusual flavour. Grapes are grown according to "biodynamic" agricultural principles. I'll want to try this again, before I can really judge it, but I do like it. 2009-08-23. $9 @ Trader Joe's.

• 2Sons Winery's (Terlato Wines International's) Hunter Ashby Cabernet Sauvignon, 2005. It has black currant and cherry, spicy, dry, smooth. 2009-08-24. $9 @ Trader Joe's.

• Ca' De Medici Lambrusco Reggiano, 2006. Light, fun. I would try this again. 2009-08-24. $5 @ Trader Joe's.

• Filippo Gallino 'Birbet', 2008. Northwest Italian, fun, lightly carbonated. 2009-10-17. $15 @ Beltramo's.

• Dona Paula Malbec. Argentina. Lovely, almost as nice as our favourite. 2009-10-17. $8 @ Beltramo's.

• Trimbach Gewurztraminer. 2006. Alsace, France. 2009-10-17. $18 @ Beltramo's.

• Jeff Runquist Wines's Runquist Barbera. 2007. 2009-10-17. $20 @ Beltramo's.

• Bedrock Wine Company's The Sherman and Hooker's Shebang Sonoma Valley Red Jug Wine. 1 litre. Old Vine Zin, Syrah, Mourvedre, and Cinsault grapes. 2006-07 vintages. 2009-10-17. $14 @ Beltramo's.

• Martella 'Hammer' Syrah. 2006. 2009-10-17. $17 @ Beltramo's. Perfectly fine, representative Syrah.

• Marietta Cellars's Old Vine Red Lot 49. Zinfandel blend. 2009-10-17. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• Bogle Vineyards California Petite Sirah. 2007. Grapes from Clarksburg (Northern Solano County, near Sacramento) and Lodi. 2009-11-17. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• Thomas Fogarty 'Monterey' Gewurztraminer. 2006. 2009-11-17. $12 @ Beltramo's.

• Wiese and Krohn, Sucrs., Limitada's Krohn 20 Year Old Tawny Port. Very soft, sweet, sensuous on the tongue. 2009-11-21. $39 @ Beltramo's.

• Zind Humbrecht Riesling. 2007. Alsace, France. Lovely aroma, crisp, slightly acid / fruity flavour, i.e., exactly the way a Reisling is supposed to be. 2009-11-21. $22 @ Beltramo's.

• Bouchard Père et Fils Beaune Clos de la Mousse. Burgundy / Pinot Noir. Beautiful, lush, smooth burgundy. 2009-11-21. $45 @ Beltramo's.

• Walter Hansel 'Estate' Pinot Noir 2007. Russian River, Sonoma County. 2009-11-21. $32 @ Beltramo's.

• Marietta Cellars's Old Vine Red Lot #50. Zinfandel blend. Cheryl says: "Sharp, but not unpleasant aftertaste. Slightly bitter on the tongue. I like it." 2009-12-13. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• Kanonkop 'Kadette' 2008. 50% Pinotage, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc. Stellenbosch, South Africa. I've never before had a Pinotage, which is a viticultural cross between Pinot Noir and Hermitage, bred in South Africa in 1925 (Hermitage being the South African name for Cinsault), and that is sometimes faulted for sometimes developing an acetone-like smell. Very unusual, complex, and interesting. A bit smoky tasting, spicy, acidic, a bit tannic with a sharp dry aftertaste. 2009-12-13. $11 @ Beltramo's.

• Hedges Family Estate's 'Three Vineyards' Red Mountain Red Wine. Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. From Yakima Valley, Washington. I liked this very much but didn't keep notes. Lucky us, we get to buy it again to study it some more. 2009-12-13. $18 @ Beltramo's.

• M. Cosentino 'California' Cabernet Franc, bottled by Crystal Valley Cellars, Yountville. 2006. Lovely in its own right; tastes smooth (of course) and is full-bodied but has a nice, long finish. Not all that memorable by my standards, though. 2009-12-13. $13 @ Beltramo's.

• Taz 'Santa Barbara County' Pinot Noir. 2007. 2009-12-13. $19 @ Beltramo's.

• La Spinetta 'Bricco Quaglia' Moscato D'Asti. 2008. Northwest Italy. 2009-12-13. $16 @ Beltramo's.

• Boekenhoutskloof's 'The Chocolate Block'. 2008. 69% Syrah, 12% Grenache Noir, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cinsault, 2% Viognier. Franschhoek region, South Africa. Really interesting, complex wine with (indeed) a bit of a chocolate overtone. 2010-01-02. $33 @ Beltramo's.

• Bodegas Borsao 'Monte Oton' Garnacha (Grenache). 2008. Borja, Aragón, Spain. Very pleasantly full-flavoured, unlike most California Grenaches. Should try more of this. 2010-01-02. $8 @ Beltramo's.

• Robert Foley Vineyards's 'The Griffin'. 2007. 43% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Petite Sirah, 22% Merlot. Angwin, Napa Valley. Really tasty blend, slightly spicy, berry-like, medium body. Good. 2010-01-02. $30 @ Beltramo's.

• Domaines Barons de Rothschild (Lafite) Val de L'Ours Cabernet Sauvignon 75%, Syrah 25%. 2008. Vin de Pays d'Oc, northern Languedoc-Roussillon, France. Produced and bottled by SAS Aussières. Not very good in my opinion. It has a rather flat, off taste, and the average cheap California Shiraz at half the money is far and away more satisfying. 2010-01-12. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• M. Cosentino 'California' Syrah, bottled by Crystal Valley Cellars, Yountville. 2005. Blend of grapes from Mandeville Island and the Kirschenmann and Knoll vineyards in northern Lodi. A keeper. This is light but complex and rounded, slightly plummy, really nice finish. 2010-02-10. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• Patricius Winery Tokaji Furmint. 2008. Dry white wine from Tokaj, northeast Hungary. Interesting and unique flavour combination, worth trying again but overall I just didn't find it compelling. 2010-02-10. $15 @ Beltramo's.

• Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2006. Blend of 70% Corvina Veronese, 25% Rondinella, and 5% Sangiovese grapes. Full-bodied, rich, dense smooth, black berry/cherry, long finish. Made in Fumane, near Verona, Italy. 30% of the grapes picked are held back and dried after the harvest until December, then added back in (Amarone or ripasso style). 2010-03-12. $17 @ Beltramo's.

• Marietta Cellars's Old Vine Red Lot #51. Zinfandel blend. Every bit as good as lots 50 and 49, for the same reasons. 2010-03-12. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• Castello di Monastero's Chianti Superiore, 2006. 85% Sangiovese, 8% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Sauvignon. From vintner Lionello Marchesi, Castelnuovo Berardenga, Tuscany, Italy. Classic Sangiovese-blend Chianti flavour. A steal at the price. 2010-03-12. $7 @ Beltramo's.

• Azienda Agricola Masciarelli S.N.C.'s Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, 2006. San Martino sulla Marrucina, Abruzzo, Italy. 2010-03-12. $7 @ Beltramo's.

• Bodega Catena Zapata's Alamos Malbec, 2008. Argentina. Another really tasty, well-rounded, full-bodied Malbec. Not a very complex wine, but perfectly OK. 2010-03-12. $9 @ Beltramo's.

• Rosenblum Cellars's California Syrah, Vintner's Cuveé, 2007. Sonoma. 2010-03-12. Sort of "soft" flavour for a Syrah, but with a really delicious aftertaste, very smooth, not much body, but on balance very refreshing and nice. $10 @ Beltramo's.

• Charles F. Mara Winery's Syrage Red Wine, 2007. 42% Syrah, 41% Petite Syrah, 16% Malbec. St. Helena. Complex, somewhat heavy mix with an interesting aftertaste. Not a lot of synergy among the varietals, in my opinion, but the result is about what you'd expect from throwing those three grapes together, anyway. 2010-03-25. $17 @ Beltramo's.

• Tin Barn Vineyards's Syrah, 2005. Coryelle Fields Vineyard, Sonoma Coast. Ah, tasty! Nice body, full and characteristically Syrah flavour. 2010-04-14. $11 @ Draeger's.

• Acacia Vineyard's A by Acacia Red Blend, 2007. Sonoma. Rhône-style: 92% Syrah, with some Mourvedre, Cinsault, and Viognier. 2010-04-14. $11 @ Draeger's.

• Brucher Winery Pinot Noir, 2007. Produced from grapes produced by Brucher Winery and Wolff Vineyards, Edna Valley, near San Luis Obispo and Santa Maria. 2010-04-14. $16 @ Draeger's.

• E. (Etienne) Guigal's Cotes du Rhône, 2006. Chateau d'Ampuis, Rhône, France. The greatest Rhône wine I know, and a classic Syrah blend. 2010-04-14. $16 @ Draeger's.

• Trinitas Cellars's Spinelli Live Oak Vineyard (Contra Costa County) Zinfandel, 2005. 2010-04-14. $20 @ Draeger's.

• Frei Brothers Reserve Russian River Valley Syrah, 2007. Healdsburg. 2010-04-14. $18 @ Draeger's.

• Bodegas Solar Viejo's Vaza Rioja Crianza, 2006. Laguardia, Rioja region, Spain. Tempranillo, which typically is blended with Graciano, Mazuela and Grancha, but is not in this case. Definitely a little different; we'd need to try this one again. 2010-04-14. $14 @ Draeger's.

• Twenty Rows Winery's Cabernet Sauvignon, 2007. Napa. 95% Cabernet Sauvignon from Howel Mountain and the Yountville foothills. 5% Merlot from Oak Knoll. 2010-04-14. $20 @ Draeger's.

• Vinedos De Aldeanueva's Cortijo III Tinto 2008. 80% Tempranillo, 20% Garnacha. Hormilla, Rioja region, Spain. Perfectly OK Tempranillo. 2010-04-14. $10 @ Draeger's.

• Bodegas Bilbaínas Viña Zaco, 2006. Haro, Rioja Alta region, Spain. Tempranillo. It's a bit heavy, rough, and generally not very interesting. Neither Cheryl nor I was very impressed. 2010-04-14. $14 @ Draeger's.

• Spicerack Vineyards's "Punchdown" Syrah, 2008. Rodgers Creek ranch area, Sonoma coast. Really good. 94% Syrah, 4% Viognier, 2% Grenache. 2010-04-14. $17 @ Draeger's.

• Bordegas Borsao, S.A.'s Borsao Red Wine, 2008. 75% Garnacha, 25% Tempranillo. Very polished, i.e., rounded taste that is very much typical of a Garnacha/Tempranillo, but I just didn't find it very interesting. 2010-04-14. $8 @ Draeger's.

• Crios de Susana Balbo Malbec, 2008. Dominio Del Plata Winery, Mendoza region, Argentina. Wow, spicy, cherry, plum, and blackberry flavours. Very pleasantly zingy aftertaste. Needs to breathe, to lose tannin from its time in new oak. 2010-04-26. $11 @ Draeger's.

• Beckmen Vineyards's Cuvee le Bec, 2008, Los Olivos, Santa Ynez Valley, Santa Barbara County. 51% Grenache, 27% Syrah, 16% Mourvedre, 6% Counoise. The 2007 vintage (reviewed above) knocked our socks off, so I expect greatness of this wine, not yet opened at this writing. 2010-05-09. $16 @ Beltramo's.

• Menzies Vineyard's The Cigar Cabernet Sauvignon. 2006. Yalumba Coonawarra Estate, South Australia. Really nice classic cabernet. 2010-05-09. $20 @ Beltramo's.

• Carica Wines's Kick Ranch "Temptation" Red Wine, 2007. Santa Rosa. Absolutely delightful Rhône-style blend of Syrah, Grenache, and Mourvèdre. Lots of plum and other fruit/berry flavours. Intense. Badly needs to breathe before it's drinkable, to lose the tannin. 2010-05-11. $22 @ Beltramo's.

• Tres Pinos Tierra Roja Paso Robles Red Wine, 2008, bottled by Maddalena Vineyards, Los Angeles, for Trader Joe's. Mix of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Syrah grapes from Paso Robles. 2010-06-22. $5 @ Trader Joe's.

• French Hill Winery Pinotage Grand Reserve, 2004. Mokelumne Hill, Calaveras County, Sierra Nevada foothills. 2010-06-22. $13 at Trader Joe's.

• Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Pinot Noir, Branciforte Creek, 2007. 2010-06-19. $29 at Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard.

• Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Durif, McDowell Valley, 2007. Vines are in Mendocino County. This is the varietal known in the USA mostly as Petite Sirah. I think this is the first subtle-tasting Petite Sirah I've ever had. It's a bit peppery like a typical Petite Sirah, and with all the berry flavour, but more restrained and balanced. On balance, really good. 2010-06-19. $18 at Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard.

• Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Grenache, McDowell Valley, 2007. Vines are in Mendocino County. By far, the tastiest Grenache I've ever had, much more robust tasting than is typical, and dry with a fair amount of tannin. Has sort of a peppery finish. Wonderful. 2010-06-19. $18 at Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard.

• Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard Quinta Cruz Verdelho, 2009. Vines are at Silvaspoons Vineyard, Galt, Sacramento County. Verdelho is cultivated in Portugal's Dão region to make aromatic dry table wines. 2010-06-19. $20 at Santa Cruz Mountain Vineyard.

• R.L. Buller and Son Fine Tokay - Victoria. Rutherglen, Victoria, Australia. Bought based on recommendation of this winery's excellent port-style fortified wines. This is a lovely fortified somewhat sweet dessert wine made from Muscadelle grapes and made from solera-blending several years' vintages. Smooth, complex. Toffee, caramel, nuttiness, long, pleasant aftertaste. 2010-06-23. $15 (375 ml) at Beltramo's.

• Seghesio Family Vineyards's Sonoma County Zinfandel, 2008. Healdsburg. My very favourite Zinfandel. Cheryl concurs, liking this wine very much. She comments: "Happiness is a bottle of this." 2010-06-11. $19 at Beltramo's.

• Martella 'Hammer' Syrah. 2007. 2010-06-11. $17 @ Beltramo's.

• Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port, 1980. Bright ruby colour, berry, strawberry, licorice, cherry. Incredibly smooth, silky feel, moderately sweet. 2010-06-11. $80 at Beltramo's.

• Noceto Sangiovese, 2007. Plymouth, Shenandoah Valley, Amador County. Superb Chianti-replica as always. Medium dry, well balanced. Mild cherry taste and a bit of spice. Not overpowering. 2010-06-11. $15 @ Beltramo's.

• Sigalas 'Santorini', Assyrtiko, 2009. Santorini Island, Greece. Assyrtiko is a white-wine grape dry-farmed on Santorini since ancient times. Not as intense as the red wine we brought home with us from Santorini, but I like it. Citrusey, delicate, tastes a bit like a good Reisling. 2010-06-23. $20 at Beltramo's.

• Symington Family Estates's Vale do Bomfim, 2007. Douro Valley, Portugal. This is the same house that produces Dow ports. Red wine blend: 58% Tinta Barroca, 15% Tinta Roriz, 14% Touriga Nacional, 8% Tinto Cão, 5% Tinta Amerela. 2010-06-23. Really nice, dry blend. It's unfamiliar enough that I'd like to try it again before I comment more. $11 at Beltramo's.

• Andrew Lane Wines's Nouveau Suisun Valley Gamay Noir, 2009. This is a young summer wine made using the Gamay Noir à Jus Blanc aka Gamay Noir aka Gamay grape that is the traditional red grape of the Beaujolais region and a cousin of Pinot Noir. And yes, the grape is what produces those lightweight "Beaujolais Nouveau" things from the southern Beaujolais region of France, where the alkaline soil and use of carbonic maceration for quick production makes it come out like alcoholic soda pop, whereas Beltramo's claims this one will come out complex and interesting. Confusingly, Gamay Noir / Gamay is not the same as California's "Gamay Beaujolais" grape, which is an early-ripening Californian clone of Pinot Noir that pioneering vintner Paul Masson imported in the 1930s from Burgundy under the mistaken impression it was Gamay Noir, and promoted as that: Real Gamay Noir wasn't planted in California until 1973. Nor is the "Napa Gamay" varietal Gamay Noir, either (as was also claimed until recently): That turns to actually be the Valdiguié grape from Languedoc-Roussillon. Perhaps even more confusingly, it's now known that (the real) Gamay Noir / Gamay originated in the classical era as a viticultural cross between Pinot Noir and the ancient Gouais Blanc varietal from Central Europe, brought west by the Romans. This one is young and fruity, light, dry, and well balanced. 2010-06-23. $10 at Beltramo's.

• Rancho Zabaco's Sonoma Heritage Vines Zinfandel, 2007. Healdsburg. Before the tannin went away: Plum and blackberry flavours, heavy but a bit bland and flat-seeming. Tannic. 24 hours later, after the tannin went away: Delicate and lovely, still strongly tasting of plum and blackberry, but nicely rounded with a pleasant finish. Conclusion: Let it breathe, and this becomes a quite nice wine for the price. 2010-06-23. $12 at Beltramo's.

• Orin Swift Cellars's 'The Prisoner' Red Wine, 2008. 46% Zinfandel, 26% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Syrah, 10% Petite Sirah, 2% Charbono, 1% Grenache. Cheryl says: Smooth, no tannic bitterness, has pleasing body texture. Rick agrees: This is a very nice blend, with a character all its own. 2010-06-23. $35 at Beltramo's.

• Cinnabar Cellars's Mercury Rising, 2007. Bordeaux-style red blend. An attractive blend that's well worth the money. Spicy, bright, with cherry flavour. Needs to breathe to get the tannin out. Paso Robles. 2010-06-23. $15 at Beltramo's.

• Seppeltsfield No. 7 Tawny, South Australia. Recommended by K&L staff, this port-style fortified wine is pretty good and moderately complex. Generally worthy of respect, though I guess I'm spoiled by good Portuguese ports. 2010-06-27. $22 at K&L Wine Merchants.

• Ca Berti Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro "Semi-Secco", Emilia-Romagna, Italy. Another fun Lambrusco. Not quite as festive as Le Grotte Reggiano's, but worthy of respect. Well balanced, plummy but not very complex. 2010-06-27. $8 at K&L Wine Merchants.

• Osocalis Alambic Brandy, Soquel. Colombard, Pinot Noir, and other Coastal Callifornia grape varieties. $45 at K&L Wine Merchants. A bit "hot", but enjoyable. (I'm not a brandy guy normally, so I don't know what else to say about it.)

Related stuff:

• Wine Berserkers forum
• Alice Feiring's blog